The front brake disassembles and assembles pretty much the same as the rear brake, so we are not going to spend a lot of time going over everything one more time.  When you disassemble the front brake pay special attention to the gaskets located between the pusher ball-shaped end and the disc support, as well as between the blocks and cams.  Mark them as they come off as each one must be replaced to the same point from which it was removed.  Once you get the whole thing apart, you can wash all the parts and inspect them thoroughly, replacing any necessary parts.  Now you are ready to put the front brake back together.

   Lightly grease your cam axles and work surfaces using general light duty grease.  Fit the cams into their respective plate holes.  Next you should fit the return spring by hooking it through the hole in the plate.  Now you should arrange the blocks with springs on the pusher ball shaped ends and the cam bearing surfaces. 

   Fit the drive and driven levers onto the cam splines and lock them thereon keeping to size 82* + or – 5*.  The two levers, when properly aligned, should not be out of parallel by more than 5*. With the brake assembled on the motorcycle, link the tie to the drive lever.  Turn each lever clockwise so as to have the blocks thrusting against the brake drum.  By screwing the tie out of, or into, the yoke you can adjust the distance between the centers to properly align them.  A normal adjustment means that the pin coupling the yoke with the drive lever slides easily through the drive lever and the holes in the yoke. 

   The tie length in between the centers of the two joints should be 152mm + or - 4mm.  If not the driven lever may be moved to a better position with the tie screwed into the yoke for at least 5mm.  Lock the tie into the yokes, using a cotter pin, pin the tie to the driven lever, lock the pin and wind up the return spring. 

   If your brake blocks are worn, the excess wear may be compensated for by turning the cams through 180* relative to their initial position, or by placing equal washers under the pusher ball-shaped ends. 

   In order to make sure that when the brakes are applied the linings make contact with the drum at the same time when the brake is applied, you may need to take one of the arms off of the splined shaft and move it a spline or two in the desired direction to line up the two rods.  It is important that you get full shoe contact from both linings at the same time. With a little patience and common sense you can dramatically improve your front brake stopping power.

   If you find that you have excessive cable movement before the front brake begins to engage, check that the two front brake cams are properly set.   The cams can be adjusted so that as soon as you begin to pull the lever the cams cause the shoes to begin opening immediately. 

   Adjust the brake drive so that the wheel turns with no drag when lifted clear of the ground, and the brake lever can easily be grasped by hand if required.  Make sure that the braking effect is achieved to your satisfaction when you grasp and squeeze the brake lever on the handlebars.

   Many people have found that by using a heavier aftermarket front brake cable, they can eliminate some of the squishiness from the front brake. 

NOTE:  There have been Dnepr trailers that can have the brakes from a sidecar adapted to them by a little fabrication and using a sidecar brake cable, or manufacturing a linkage

   If you have a leading link front end with mechanical brakes, you may encounter a few unique problems.  One of the leading problems that is encountered is variations in the stay link.  They have been manufactured slightly different on occasion, and also get bent when they get pried back for tire removal.  Some have the offset bent directly into the link while others have a straight link, while the end bushings are welded offset.  If the link is slightly bent, it can misalign the shoes sufficiently to leave play in the tophats of the brake plate.  This causes the shoulders of the brake linings to make contact first.  While you are stopped this contact may be sufficient to keep you from rolling backwards or forward on an incline, and still maintain good lever tension.  However when you apply the front brake under forward momentum, the linings will center due to the force of the rotation of the brake drum, and the lever will bottom out leaving you with no front brake.

    The links that have the bushing welded with the right offset seem to be far superior to the ones that had the link bent into the correct offset shape.  If the link has been bent and straightened a few times it will get so out of alignment that it is best to replace the whole link.  This should also be replaced if the rubber bushings are worn or loose.  Occasionally the old style links will snap under excessive load.