Your Dnepr should have at least two wheels on it, three if you have a sidecar.  Generally speaking there is also some sort of spare mounted on the back of the sidecar, but this is not always the case.  Dnepr’s are notorious for a number of quirks, not the least of which are square wheels, or at best wheels that are somewhat out of round.  This can only be expected when you have a tank thinly disguised as a motorcycle, and if you are like most owners you have taken it off road.  If the bike is new to you and you haven’t gone off road yet, the chances are really good that the person who had the bike before you had taken it for more than its share of off road poundings.  

   First thing you should do is check that all of your wheels have good rubber on them.  Although Russian rims and spokes are not reputed to be worth a darn, the Russian rubber is highly regarded as being the best for these rigs.  There are many good tire companies out there, and then there are lots of others that will not serve the purpose that is intended for your particular usage.  If you are going to be going off road then a knobby tire might be best suited for your bike, whereas if you are never intending to leave the asphalt, a good set of road tires is what is called for.  If, however, you are like most of us you will be dividing your riding time between asphalt, gravel roads and tearing around off road like some maniac teenager, and will find that an on/off road combination tire is best for you.

   If you are just going to do a quick visual inspection of your tires then you can skip this part, and go take a pull off of that bottle of Vodka in the tool box.  However if you are doing a full inspection of the wheels and tires you are going to need to remove the wheel assembly’s from the motorcycle.  First of all you will need to get the wheels up off of the ground.  For the bike it is generally pretty easy.  Located on the frame under the transmission and just in front of the rear wheel assembly there is a center stand.  If you have a sidecar, you may have never had the need to use yours, and will usually find it located beneath a thick coating of mud and grease.  If you are riding a solo, you probably have a side stand as well as a center stand which you use when you park.  Dnepr’s are pretty heavy and cumbersome so few riders use the center stand all the time.  You will need to reach up under the bike, and pull the center stand down until both feet are touching the ground.  Then using one of your feet to hold the stand in place you will roll the bike backwards lifting up the rear of the motorcycle as you do so.  Don’t be alarmed if you are unsuccessful the first few times, as this is a bit tricky and requires both strength and co-ordination.  The co-ordination part is often hampered by the over use of the bottle of vodka.  It’s all right to ask a friend or neighbor to come and give you a hand with this part of the operation.  A good strong wife can also come in handy here.  Once the bike is up on the stand and the stand is firmly locked in place, you will notice that the back wheel is clear of the ground.  A little weight on the back will usually result in the front wheel lifting up off of the ground.  A short length of 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 under the center stand will give you even more clearance when you roll it up onto the center stand.

   NOTE: if you have a flat tire, similar pieces of wood to serve as a ramp under the flat tire so that the stand will go over center a tad easier.  This is where a motorcycle or ATV jack really comes in handy.  As a matter of fact I have a pair of these dandy little units, one each for the motorcycle and the sidecar.  If you don’t have one or two of these jacks then a nice hefty block of wood or a box or crate of some sort will generally ensure that when placed in a convenient spot under the frame; both wheels are free of ground interference.  Another such object can be placed in a convenient spot under the sidecar frame will result in all three wheels being off the road, and you are ready to start pulling the wheels off of the motorcycle for inspection.

To remove your wheels you are going to need the following tools.  A pair of pliers and a screwdriver for taking out the cotter pins that are used to keep the locking nuts from coming off while you are driving along.  You may also require the use of a drift pin and a hammer to drive the axle out of the hub, depending on how rusted in the axle has become.  NOTE: never hit the threaded part of the axel with a metal hammer.  If you have a rubber or plastic hammer you may use it, but if you strike the threads with a metal hammer they will peen over, and you won’t be able to re-thread the axle without going over the threads with a proper tap, or hand filing the threads back to normal.  That is what the punch / drift pin is for.  Place it in the center of the axle and give it a good solid tap to free the axle.  If necessary you can continue driving the axle through the hub in this manner but be sure not to damage the inner workings of the hub.  You must keep the punch in the center of the axle.  Hopefully you have a nice box of assorted cotter pins handy, as it is always wise to replace your cotter pins every time you remove them.  I find that while at the auto parts store, I buy a nice supply while I am purchasing my tire and tube repair kits.  First of all you will take the screwdriver and straighten out the bits of cotter pin that are sticking out of the hole in the axle.  Not all axles have a hole which is showing, or even a hole at all.  Mine didn’t until I drilled one, and safety wired it just to be sure.  Take the pliers and get a good grip on the loop end of the cotter pin and give it a good tug.  The cotter pin should come right out.  If it doesn’t make sure you’ve got a good grip and pull harder.  If the cotter pin is not straight, the little kinks can cause resistance coming through the hole.  This is especially true if the cotter pin is properly sized and a tight fit in the first place. 

This might be a good time to remind you that you should have a good supply of band aids and disinfectant nearby as skinned knuckles are all a part of the fun.  Once the cotter pin is removed you can throw it away.  Don’t do this if you haven’t got a replacement handy, as this is really important to ensure the nut stays on the axle and that the axle stays in the wheel hub.  A used cotter pin is always better than no cotter pin at all.  On your left lower leg you will find a pinch bolt that goes more or less horizontally through at the bottom of the axle.  Loosen this pinch bolt, or if you wish you can remove it completely.    It’s always a good idea to have some sort of container to put the things you take off, such as nuts and bolts and cotter pins and such, into so that they don’t get lost or all covered in dirt and sand. 

On the other end of your axle (R. H.) you should have a large hole running through it.  This is so you can take your screwdriver (or a big old allen wrench or drift pin) and stick it through the hole so that you have something to use to turn the axle out of the threaded part of the lower (L. H.) fork leg.  You will also need this to grip with when you pull the axle out.  With a little luck, and a few good tugs, the axle should come right out.  If it doesn’t come right out refer to the hammer and drift pin mentioned earlier.  Remember, when the axle comes out, there is nothing left holding the wheel in place, and it will fall to the ground, so make sure your fingers and toes are all clear, and you haven’t left your container of bits underneath the wheel where it will get crushed or spilled.  I like to hold the wheel in place with my feet under the rubber so when the axle comes free the wheel is held pretty much in place.  You should have a towel or cloth or mat of some sort nearby to put the axle and wheel onto when you take them off.  Just laying them in the dirt is not the best idea as they will get all gritty, and grit is not all that good for your bearing surfaces.  Place your axle on the mat, and then place your wheel on the mat with the brake side facing upwards. 

   Pull out the front axle, being careful not to let the front wheel drop, and detach the hub deflector from the wheel.  Remove the front wheel with the brake assembly still in place.  Separate the wheel from the front brake backing plate, and allow the backing plate to hang suspended by the front brake cable.  If you prefer, you can detach the cable before you remove the Axle, and keep the brake assembly intact, and inside the wheel hub for later removal and inspection.  Before you re-install the front axel, clean it thoroughly and put a thin coat of wheel bearing grease, or clean engine oil onto it to help it to slip into place easily, and prevent the axel from hanging up or hampering rotation.

      You have just successfully removed your front wheel.

   The sidecar wheel comes off in a similar manner.  Using a jack or lift, raise the sidecar wheel up off of the ground.  You first pull the cotter pin, and then remove the nut that holds the wheel in place. Now you remove the wheel from the axle pretty much the same as you remove a car wheel.